Malta

A note to all viewers- this Malta Post was composed early this summer, not that long after we had been in Malta, but due to the very rushed nature of the rest of our summer, we never got round to actually posting the blog. So here it is, and we wish you a happy festive season.

Our trip to Malta had been talked about, but never actually agreed upon, until we found out that our friends Brian and Rosie were still in Malta, and having their mast re-rigged.

We have had an ongoing rigging problem, and the chance of having a highly recommended rigger inspect our rigging was  the final catalyst in encouraging to head down to Malta.

So we left Siracuse in Sicilly,  but due to lack of suitable wind, we anchored for evening in the bay of Porta Paulo. When we left at about 8.00 pm we had high hopes of a good night time sail, but in fact ended up motoring most of the way in a very choppy sea, rolling from side to side like a see-saw, not nice.

Anyway, as we approached Valletta harbour, the moon was shining down on us, almost lighting up our entry to the harbour. 

We had decided to head for Messida Creek jetty, where according to the almanac, we would find the customs office. We very quietly tied up to the end of the pier, and  as it was still only about 6 am, Linda went for a snooze, and I drunk some tea.

By then the sun was rising and for some reason I was feeling a bit energetic, so I set off across the town to the marina yard where we knew Brian, Rose and Alixora were berthed.I dont know who was more surprised, me at actually finding them, or them as I wandered down the ramshackle jetty that they were berthed at. We said our hellos and then had tea, as friends do.
Plans were very quickly made to have Brian and Rose over for dinner and some drinks that evening, and to catch up on the winters gossip!
Things were moving fast, but the fact was, they were more or less ready to leave, so we did want to have an evening together.

Alixora at the Messina repair berth- note the very old crane in the background- a feature of Malta, there are a lot of very old things here.

I then wandered back to our berth, to shake up our crew, who by then were mostly awake anyway.
When I got back, I was amazed to find out that we had , by complete accident berthed next to folk whom we had met almost two years ago in Portugal, Brian and Irene, on board "Dando", so even more catching up to do.
The next on my agenda was the visit to the customs office, which (obviously) was not where it should have been, and I then had to walk a very long ( by now the energy was draining) way to sign in.
Thankfully, officialdom is not too official in Malta, and things went along quickly, so I was soon on my way back to the boat with a bag of various pies- Malta has lots of pie shops, and we like pies!!
Linda and the girls were delighted.

We did not do very much that day, a bit of a walk around the harbour, but enough to get a flavour for the place.
The old boat in the background is the "Black Pearl", sunk twice, but now an on shore resteraunt.

Our berth on the end of the  pier, next to "Dando"

One of a very many "Maltese" looking day tripper boats.

They come in all sizes!

Recycling at its very best- an old cannon used as a mooring bollard.

Now this is what a great many people visit Malta to see- the fleet of old busses- and there are plenty of them!!

This takes my back to my first days at primary school. This one was lovingly restored, but some are running on a prayer and a measure of good luck.

There are all types of older vehicles to see.............

This old truck was in daily use, and why not??

I think it is great when older things are kept going, and well looked after- at least thats what  am constantly telling Linda!!

This old bike just rounded off the day- what a beauty!

We made contact with the rigging specialist that Brian and Rosie had been using, and an appointment was made for him to do an initial inspection.

Appointments are a bit "flexible" in Malta, but he was worth waiting for!
The rigger, by the name of Nicky, scooted up the mast, using a variety of mountaineering gadgets, faster that a squirrel up a tree.
This was the bit that I was almost dreading, the inspection!!, but actually all is well.
Basically we have a mast and rig that can flex, especially in heavy weather, which I do not like.
Nicky offered some advice, and we agreed that he would fit an inner forestay and running backstays, which he assured me would make the rig "Bullet Proof"
(We have now sailed a further 600+ miles and his advice was 100% correct)
All this extra rigging work took almost two weeks, so we had plenty of time to visit other parts of the town, and take in some of the history.

We first visited the museum of the "Knights of St John", which was really interesting, as we had learned quite a bit about their earlier history when we were in Rhodes.

The variety, quantity and condition of the exhibits is really fantastic.

There are examples of all kinds of armour and weapons.....

To pierce you, hack you or simply.............

Blow your brains out!!
The Knights of St John were thrown out of Rhodes by the Turks, and allowed to settle in Malta.
The of course continued to harrass the Turks at every opportunity, and eventually they decided to get rid of the Knights once and for all.
In  ??    over 38,000 Turks landed and laid seige to the Knights forts in Malta.
This was definately a David and Goliath thing, as there were only about 600 or so knights and about 3000 - 4000 regular soldiers defending. They did have immensely solid forts, which were defended with great skill. After a summer of seige, when it did look as if the very much superrior Turkish forces would succeed, a relief force arrived to save the day.
The Knights enjoyed over 200 years of unbroken rule, and Malta was built up to be a very prosperous island- the "Jewel of the Medditeranian", so much so, that Napolian Bonnaparte decided that France should have it, and that was that , at least for a time.
The unfortunate Maltese people have actually not really had much luck regarding being left alone to look after themselves, as century after century, which ever country was the most powerfull at the time had a go at running the place. Good old GB of course had a go, which of course lead to the infamous blockade and bombing of the second world war.
Its kind of funny that now, when most of the great super powers of old are almost bankrupt, Malta is so far holding its own.

Valleta town has a great many old buildings, and we spent some time just walking around and looking.

Almost all of the grand old buildings date from the period when the Knights ran the place.

And there are the "coats of arms " everywhere.

Its not hard to see the influence of the period of UK occupation.......

The princesses being taken to the Royal Ball...........

Or the princesses getting entirely soaked at the water fountain in the square!!

As we walked around the harbour, we saw some odd looking craft moored. I dont think that this one would go our too far.

The harbour was always busy, day trippers, cruise liners, regattas, etc

Finally , with the work done, and a reasonable weather forecast we said our goodbyes and set off.
Brian and Irene, showing off her injuries of the previous day.

We went a short distance up to St Pauls Bay to anchor for the night, and to give ourselves a good early start on our trip back up to Sicily next day.
We anchored just below the remains of what is claimed to be the small church the St Paul built when he was shipwrecked and lived for a short while in Malta.
The monument to the right is much newer.
We did Malta "in a nutshell" but it was a great place to spend some time.
Next blog- the final chapter!!!!