Oban to Holyhead

Sat 20th Oban to Islay.

Ali and I got up at 4 am to catch the tide. We heard noises as we were setting off and this was the German’s setting off with their boat, guess where they were heading! We past the infamous Corrvvrekin on the way south but it was so murky we couldn’t really see it. There was a yacht heading into the sound to play we thought. Last time we were here we saw a yacht do a full 360 flip in the tide there!

Ali was complaining about the lack of wind when we set off - as usual he got his wish for much more wind. The coast guard forecast said force 5-6 easing to 3-4 well I can tell you there was no easing in fact we thought it could have been about a force 8 as we were approaching Port Ellen. Thank goodness the harbour is sheltered from the West! This all made for an ’exhilarating sail’ - Ali’s words, ‘hard sail’ - my words! As we were coming in towards Port Ellen the Germans were leading, I reminded Alistair that this was not a race but he had gone into ‘the zone’ by this point (any of you who race with Ali will know all about it!) and anyhow we banged about all over the place but got to the approach first!

We passed the infamous Corryvrekin on the way South but it was so murky we could not really see it. There was a yacht heading into the sound to play about. Last time we were here we saw a yacht do a full 360 flip in the tide there! The tide is always very impressive around that area and it carried us down the Sound of Luing at about 10 knots. Thankfully we have always had tide with us there I would think we would be going backwards if we didn’t!

Ali met a man called Shaun Milligan who was apparently a ‘yachty’ in Shetland a few years ago.
He was returning home to Orkney with a boat he had just bought.

The lasses got their bikes out and wore their new helmets that Granny and Pop bought them for the first time. We went around the bay us running alongside and then Ali took them up to the play park and whilst I made tea. It was early to bed as we were so tired!

Sun 21st Islay to Glenarm
We went to the cyber café to post the blog which is super as it is a café/youth club on one side and a bistro on the other so you can have a nice meal whilst you surf. The internet is really fast too. We left Islay at 3pm to catch the tide to Ireland. It was a really foggy day and so we were using the radar the whole way. We got the fog horn and flares out because we had to cross the Traffic Separation Scheme and we could only see as much as half a mile at the most at any time. Kaylee loved the foghorn when we tested it to see if it was working so we have hidden it somewhere she can’t find it as I don’t fancy being woken up at 6am with a foghorn! It is a bit spooky seeing ships on the radar and trying to figure out if you have to take avoiding action when you can’t see them. After a while a large shadow appeared on the radar which looked like a huge ship near us but it stayed on the radar the whole way to Glenarm and didn’t leave us which means that the radar is now playing up! At least it was also showing what was there as it showed the coast line perfectly. We didn’t really see much of the coast of Ireland on the way down but we made good time as we had a bit of a breeze and a lot of tide especially off Rathlin Island.

We got into Glenarm at about 9.30pm had our dinner and raced up to the pub to have a pint of Guinness. They were all shut! It must be 10pm closing on a Sunday - typical!

Mon 22nd Glenarm to Bangor
We left early in the morning to catch the tide as we had realised the night before there wasn’t that much to Glenarm. Thankfully the fog had cleared up and it was a lovely morning. Ali and I were debating whether the land we could see was Scotland or not but as it came closer we realised it was the Maidens a couple of rocks just off the coast of Ireland! Top navigators we are not!

We came into Belfast Lough in good time and wondered why this boat was speeding towards us it turned out to be the Belfast Water Police patrol boat just zooming around checking all the boats in the area. Alisha and Kaylee who had now decided to get up waved at them with their pyjamas still on.


As we came closer to Bangor we were looking around and saw something moving above the houses a great big wind turbine it was funny seeing one in the town. Maybe it is a tourist attraction…….

Bangor marina is huge but very well kept and organised. We tied up and organised someone to come and look at some of the electronics. He played around for a while and said they were all OK. Ali had seen some older guys that we had met in Oban trying to unstick their ‘in mast furling sail’ and saw that they were looking pretty knackered so he spent about two hours up the mast fixing it for them!

We went to town after that where there was a travelling fair the girls had spied from the marina. Of course that meant they wanted to go on all the rides and as they were too small so did we. The dodgems were the best fun. The attendant asked where we were form when we said Shetland and he said ‘Oh yes my mum lives near there in Hawick?!?!’ I don’t think he had the best grasp of geography.

A fishing trip charter boat came into the marina and they were throwing fish to a seal that was following them into the pontoon. When we walked past later then the seal was still hanging around and kept coming up to look at us. You could see him swimming around under the sea the lasses loved it.

The waterfront in Bangor has gardens and fountains all around and is really quite nice. There is an excellent play park and we were there until we got hungry. We had tea in a really nice place near the marina and finally had a pint of Guinness each it was worth the wait!

Tues 23rd Bangor to Ardglass

The girls had spied some pedal swans in the park the day before and so we had to go back in the morning when they were open. It was good fun, like dodgems on water but with a bit of exercise thrown in! Then we had to take a ride on the mini train that goes around the play park and lastly the girls tried out the paddling pool and had to run back to the marina just in their pants as they were soaking. When we went back to the boat one of the guys who was working with the sails the day before and gave us some short cuts and advice on marinas and tides etc. We were going to set off to the Isle of man the next day but decided on his advice to head down to Ardglass that afternoon. It was a flat calm all the way and a lovely journey down the coast. We got into Ardglass at around 10pm. It is a dredged marina with very precise instructions to get in through the lights., when we woke in the morning it was low tide and we realised why - the whole harbour dries except for the narrow channel and the fishing pier at the other side. You would never have known it the night before it looked like you could cross between the two - no way!

Wed 24th Ardglass
It was quite a windy morning with wind blowing from the East so we put off the trip to the Isle of Man and went to look around. First stop - play park! It is fairly new and an old man who lives next to it said that they had put down weed killer a couple of years ago to sow grass on the surrounding ground but the local kids have territorial spats and had been having stone fights every night so they let the weeds grow back! Alisha finally mastered the monkey bars on her own and was very proud of herself. We went for a walk around the village it is quite small jus a couple of grocery shops and a couple of cafes and butchers. It has a few tower houses dating back to the 14th to 16th centuries when it was a busy trading port. We went to look around one after tea the rest are private houses.

We spoke to a couple of Norwegian crews at the marina, one was a family returning from a year in the Caribbean (I really wish people would stop telling Ali how easy it is to cross the Atlantic!) The other crew were delivering a Family yacht to Cyprus but they planned to be there by the beginning of August! After a crew change in Dublin they were only planning to stop twice more in two thousand miles - thank goodness we are not tied to a schedule like that! We went for another pint of Guinness as we felt it was only right before we left Ireland the next day!

Thurs 25th Ardglass to Holyhead

We got up early as wherever we decided to go we had to get up to catch the tide. When we got out the harbour it was a very choppy sea and we were getting thrown around a lot. For some reason we thought since it was a good wind we should forget the Isle of Man and head straight over to Holyhead. The wind as usual didn’t die down and it ended up being ‘on the nose’ which resulted in all three of the ladies on board being sick. After a while I came at and did some steering which is always a good sea sickness cure. It was a really sunny day but I had been feeling too under the weather to remember the sun cream which means I look a little like a racoon now! The girls just lay on deck in their pyjamas and spewed every now and then. They really are quite amazing as they don’t complain and just lie there Kaylee only protested when I went to steer for a while as she doesn’t think I am as good as Ali in heavy seas! The sea calmed a bit when we got nearer to Holyhead the coastguard helicopter came in quite close, we think they were looking for someone to practice being a casualty but must have decided to look for another boat when they saw the lasses on deck.

We got tied up at about six and all headed up for a shower about seven so the lasses finally got out of their pyjamas. Ali took us out for an Indian meal to fill our empty bellies up again. If you are ever in Holyhead and fancy a curry Raja’s in the town centre is excellent.

Friday 26th Holyhead
The girls spent much of the morning ‘fishing’ off the pontoon. There are loads of little and big fish swimming around the pontoons and a local caught two fair sized lobsters with creels he had set at the end of the pontoon. Ali and I spent the morning cleaning around the boat as it was a bit of a state after yesterday. Once again the air vents on the girls cabin had been left open and their bed had been soaked with the sea crashing over the boat before we had realised yesterday.
We headed into town for a look around it is a nice place, a bit rundown but there is plenty to see here and in the surrounding area if you have a car! Now it is raining and so we are all in for the night. Tomorrow we are thinking to head over to Pwllheli - no idea how you pronounce that! We are in shock that Jacko is dead! And Farrah Fawcett!!

Oban

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Sun 14th Eigg to Oban

I woke up at about 5am and poked my head out of the boat to check the anchor was OK and the sound of drums was still coming from the campsite.. It was still a flat calm so the anchoring was fine.

We left as soon as we dragged ourselves out of bed. Ali decided we should try a spot of fishing. We only got 1 mackerel at the first attempt. The girls loved it especially the usual fish anatomy lesson at gutting time. It stayed calm the whole day and dry for most of the day too. Last time we came down this way it was so rainy and cold we all stayed inside and left Ali and Lindsay outside in their oilskins occasionally passing them cups of tea to keep them going! We passed Ardnamurchan point which you always hear on the shipping forecast making you think it is a huge headland but it is just a little cliff. But we did manage to catch another fish here and between them they made a good fish curry!

It was so calm that Kaylee and I did some cleaning in the cockpit which she loves as she squirted cleaner everywhere.

We passed by ‘Balamory’ as the girls didn’t seem too interested in going. The rain started later in the day but not too much. The big ferries to Mull go past fairly quickly and we got a surprise with one of their bow waves.

We passed by the Lismore Island light house which was in the middle of a paint job. They do it with what looks like abseiling ropes. I wouldn't fancy that job! We got into Oban marina and tied up just as the rain was really starting- good timing for once!

Mon15th Perth

To our amazement when we got up in the morning we saw a familiar boat parking up just next to us. The 'Tup Nor' a German boat that we have met in Scalloway, Westray, Stromness, Kyle of Lochalsh and now here. We were all laughing about it as we really didn't think we would see each other again!

We cleaned out the boat a bit all easier with 240v electricity. Ali booked the boat to be lifted out on Wednesday so we decided to go to Perth today to see John Robert , Mary and family. Alisha and Kaylee were really excited to see their big cousins again. The bus ride to Perth was a bit hairy the bus driver seemed to be driving a little fast for my liking after he got delayed.

Mary had made a lovely meal and it was great catching up with what everyone was doing. The girls were delighted and raced around with their cousins until they were fit to drop. Ali and John decided to catch up properly after the rest of us had gone to bed (which unfortunately for the rest of us meant sharing all their news at full volume which got louder as the bottle of Jura got lower!!)

Tues 16th Perth
The kids got up early to see the big ones off to school and of course there were two men who took a little longer than the rest of us to surface….. Alisha lost her first tooth in Perth and is very proud of herself as she is now a 'big girl.' We pottered around for the whole day and all too soon it was time to get the bus back to Oban thankfully less of a terror ride this time! When we got off the bus the Oban and District Youth Pipe Band had just started playing. They were very good but Kaylee wasn't too impressed and was holding her ears. The rain and wind started just as we were crossing the bay in the marina's water taxi. Mr Angry had also caught up with us they are supposed to be taking the sea plane home to Largs tomorrow weather permitting.......

Wed 17th Oban
Lifting the boat out was cancelled because of the wind. So we got on with some washing and then headed over to Oban to find the swimming pool. We climbed to the top of the hill to McCaig's tower. We went off to the swimming pool which was a great place with all sorts going on. We had tea at the cafe which was rented out by the guy serving and had only two staff on at that time but he said he makes a profit. Ali said he should head up to Lerwick to take over the Clikimin cafe. The cafe was a fairly bumpy ride across and you had to watch where you sit so as not to get soaked.

Thurs 18th Oban
It was even windier today. The sea had been really banging against our cabin last night so we hardly got any sleep (of course the girls were oblivious and up at the usual time.) Cathy and Joan came down from Inverness to see us. Cathy took the girls a very noisy martian bashing game (pictured) which has been played with ever since. Joan and Cathy gave the girls some makeup with a mirror and Kaylee was in her element. We were going to go across to Oban and have tea with Cathy and Joan but the next skipper that was coming on ddn't like wind too much and there was every chance we would get stuck over in town so we stayed put.

Fri 19th Oban
Ali wanted to set off today but it was still very windy with really strong gusts as I discovered on the sea taxi when I went to get sailing supplies. I seemed to have the lucky seat in the middle of the boat and was the only dry person on it as the waves were crashing over it. The sea taxi experience made me fairly certain that the sailing was off. Which it was. We went for a walk around Kerrera isle between showers then we went over to the swimming pool again. The lasses got fish and chips on the way home from a chip shop with a photo of Rick Stein with the chef on the wall. Apparently a celebrity chef endorsement allows a price 'endorsement' too, it was a good fish though! Ali and I decided to eat in the marina seafood restaurant so we got some warm clothes on as it is an outdoors eating experience. It was a very good meal and we got talking to some others too. One boy was the skipper of a very large charter yacht in the harbour. He comes from a sailing family who lived in the Caribbean on board a yacht all of his younger days. He reckoned his first ever memory was being aground on a sand bank in Bermuda! We had to call it a night as the lasses were getting cold and the midges were coming out. Also we were getting up early to catch the tide!

Eigg

Sat 13th Eigg


We headed towards the harbour in Eigg (dodging the ferry which was gaining on us) and were surprised to find another two yachts anchored already. The entrance is quite narrow with obstructions but it was low tide which was good as we could see where we could anchor easily.

When we looked around there seemed to be loads of people on the shore and the campsites had loads of tents. We rowed ashore and it was like stepping back into the seventies - hippies everywhere the only difference was that the cider most of them were drinking was cans of Magners not flagons of Scrumpy Jack. We went into the shop where we found out it was the anniversary party day of the community buy out of Eigg and even better there was a ceilidh on at night in the hall with a few bands including the 'Chair' from Orkney. We went for a wander around and our girls quickly homed on some other girls their own age. They did some rock climbing and then there mum came over looking for them. I said I would keep an eye on them as the mum wanted to 'socialise' at the pier. We went over to the beach and the lasses had a great time splashing around. The mum came over for a look about an hour later and I said I was sorry the little girls were a little wet. She said it's OK anything goes on Eigg. This turned out to be lucky because as soon as she left again Kaylee and the two other girls waded in up to their necks before I could stop them! They had really great fun with the girls who actually are from Eigg. There are only 2 kids in the nursery on Eigg and 7 at the school.

Ali and I sat on the rocks having a couple of cans to fit in whilst we watched over the kids. When we put the two girls back to their parents it turned out that their father is Scruff who was fishing with Martin Clunes on the island programme he did recently.

They were serving food at the pier so we had some to build up our strength for the ceilidh! By this time there were eight boats anchored in the harbour and motor boats coming accross from Mallaig. After getting changed we rowed ashore again to go up to the hall it is a bit further inland through the trees.

The hall had a really good atmosphere and the floor was full of dancers right from the very first song by the very first band. The eightsome reels look very complicated down here, I was glad I hadn't got up for that one! The kids were all playing outside climbing trees. One of the adults had told Alisha that the woods were full of crocodiles to stop her going wandering and it sure worked. The hall and garden got very busy indeed. The midge problem was sorted by the lighting of a big fire outside. A lady told us when we came in it was OK as there were mattresses in the corner where the kids could sleep but to be careful to get a space. Sure enough as the night went on kids were laid down by their parents and seemed to sleep soundly (pictured,) Alisha even joined them for an hour or so. I bumped into Andrew Gifford there which was a surprise as I wasn't expecting to see anyone I knew at all. He was playing the base with the Chair. One of the locals told me that there was a Shetland woman called Nora who lived on the island but she wasn't there. We had to call it a night about 12 as the lasses needed to go home (and there was the small issue of being able to row!) so we never got to see the Chair as they were only coming on at about 1am. I don't think that they are so strict about their time keeping in Eigg! It had been a great day and the lasses were happy to go to bed when we got back as were we.

Eigg Ferry Pier

Her are some pictures Ali took of the pier built by RJ McLeod a few years ago. He reckons it is a well built pier.

Kyle of Lochalsh to Eigg

Thurs 11th Kyle of Lochalsh

We decided to stay in Kyle of Lochalsh for the day as it was beautiful and sunny and we wanted to go and look around. Firstly though we tackled the cleaning of the Port side of the boat and the fore deck as it is was all looking a bit green from sitting still all winter. We went for a walk to the play park (of course.) Then to the top of the view point where we could see up and down the sound. We went swimming in the afternoon at a small pool and leisure centre which we had been to last time we were here. It is a very busy place the pool was full and there were loads of people in the gym. It doesn't look like it cost the earth to build (or staff) and once again the showers were far better than any of the ones in the pools in Shetland I have been to!

Fri 12th Kyle of Lochalsh

It was another beautiful sunny day so obviously we had to stay to clean the Starboard side of the hull. I decided to do some hand washing so we spent the whole morning doing that. The pontoon here is far busier than last time we were here loads of boats and people to talk to. Ali has been showing off the new stove he installed a few weeks ago and it is becoming normal to have men popping in for a look. The chimney even got a polish today!

One thing I overheard today made me think Ali is really a fairly well mannered skipper. An elderly couple were coming into the pontoon and as usual in these cases the man was at the wheel and the woman was on deck being barked orders at. I went over to catch a rope and OK she did get it all a bit wrong but it was a flat calm, there was no great bang as the boat hat the pontoon and it all ended OK but he shouted, 'No you stupid woman that's the wrong rope.' then thanked me for my help and I retreated quickly as he continued to get on to her. The only time Ali ever shouted at us was when the old Islay Mist did smack quite dramatically into the Small Boat Harbour due to Daniel and my disorganisation on the ropes. I can still her the crack now......
The old guy on the boat turned out to be very pleasant to talk to but a bit of a lunatic on the angry front. He took an adolescent boy by the scruff of the neck just for hanging around on the pontoon. Then when Ali was talking to him he stopped a man getting on his boat and asked him what exactly he was doing getting on his boat. The man replied, 'My boat is tied up to the other side of yours I have to get on to yours to get to it!' Luckily he seemed to like us!

In the afternoon Ali took the lasses out in the dingy in a bid to ease them back into dingy travel after the 'swamping incident.' They went to the seaward side of the MOD base to get a better look and thankfully didn't get apprehended or chased away. I went to the TV/Computer fixing shop to get on t'internet. Luckily I did as I had been putting the connection problems down to swing around on a mooring in Portree. It turned out that actually my Vodafone broadband dongle had reset my internet setting and I couldn't get on any kind of network. The guy worked his magic and hey presto emails came flying into the inbox. He only charged £20 after working on my computer for about an hour and letting me 'surf' for another hour. He really knows his stuff so if your having any evil computer problems in Kyle then you know where to go. He also informed me that my laptop was of a brand (Sony) destined to fail within a year and made me promise never to stick the Vodafone dongle anywhere near my computer again unless I install the older version of windows.

At tea time I had an even stranger experience in the Coop. I had to argue with a lady at the checkout for about ten minutes to let me buy a bottle of red wine to go with the steaks Ali was cooking!!!!! Honestly! A compliment apparently but I would not have been a happy bunny to have go back to the boat with sirloin but no Merlot!

Sat 13th Kyle to Eigg

On Saturday morning it was a bit rainy at but cleared up pretty quickly. We set off at high tide heading to Tobermory. It was flat calm and dull with the occasional light shower but it got brighter and calmer all the time (my kind of sailing!) We motored down the sound between Skye and the mainland which opens up into the 'Sound of Sleat' it is a very picturesque area. When it is clam and we are sailing it (dare I say it!) gets a bit boring, so Ali busied himself with making a steering seat out of some net he had found on the beach at Portree - now that's recyling for you! I whiled away the time making a few phonevcalls as there was a surprisingly good signal even though we were at sea between two sparsely populated hilly shores. Makes you realise how bad the reception really is in some parts of Shetland.

We were heading towards Ardnamurchan point when we decided to go to Eigg for a look instead of Tobermory as we have been there twice before and the calm weather meant we would feel more confident about anchoring. This turned out to be one of those coincidentally great decisions.... to be continued......

Portree

Tuesday 9th - Portree

We stayed in Portree another day as Ali had his eye on a walk at the other side of the bay. Stupidly we all agreed and so packed a lunch and set off in the dingy. As we got further out of the shelter of the harbour the waves got bigger at which point I should have put a stop to it.......... By the time we got near to the beach the girls and myself who were at the front of the dingy were fairly wet but nothing compared to when the rolling breakers swamped us and we were up to our knees in water! Thankfully we were just being washed ashore at that point. There was a bit of crying and carry on but the girls recovered remarkably quickly and we started our walk across the steep rocky hill side that went down to the shore. Alisha thinks she is 'the best mountain climber' in the family and would not take any help and was scaring her mum with her antics! Ali decided to try and light a fire cave man style with some string and a few pieces of wood (pictured) The girls had a ball collecting wood for the fire that never was..... We walked around the bay and had our lunch, it turned out to be a great day. All the while waiting for the swell to die down a bit so we could get the dingy back off the beach. It didn't.

Ali and I took off our boots and rolled up our breeks in a futile attempt to stay dry whilst we loaded the lasses into the dingy and pushed the boat off. We did get off the beach which was the first hurdle over with. The waves were even bigger and we were going into them so every wave filled the boat a bit even though Ali was trying his best to find his way 'through' them. I was scooping out as fast as I possibly could with a bottle I had found on the beach. The girls just clang to the seat and each other with their eyes closed. They didn't cry or scream even though every wave was breaking over them, poor peerie things. Eventually though we made it back to calmer water and all had to get all the salty clothes off on deck. Once again the guy at the back of the dingy seemed to escape remarkably drier than the rest of us which seemed very unfair especially as the whole trip was his idea. After a hot chocolate and some dry clothes all was forgotten and we got back into the dingy and headed for a shower at the swimming pools. Ali said we should treat ourselves to dinner out after our ordeal so it all seemed worth it in the end!

Here is a picture of a winfarm on Skye. It only has a few turbines and they are nowhere near as big as the proposed Viking Energy towers. This is on an island which is much larger than Shetland, has a population of only 12,500, is much closer to major cities and is allready linked by a cable to the mainland. There was alot of controversy about this wind-farm and others that have been proposed in Skye which were also much smaller than the proposed Viking windfarm. Skye probably has a lot more to lose out on in the tourism industry than Shetland as it is definitely Skye's biggest income.
If Shetland loses it's tourist industry it won't have quite the same impact. There is one B&B in Skye advertising itself as having great views of the windfarm so you never know maybe all the people who are to be surrounded by turbines can turn their houses in to B&B's with the special attraction of being some of the few places you can stay in Britain that are actually in a winfarm, not just next to it! Just some food for thought...........

Wed 10th - Portree to Kyle of Lochalsh

We went into the pier to get fuel and water where Ali got a real shock..... After travelling hundreds of miles without refuelling in an attempt to find cheaper fuel he was charged the full duty for the first time in his life and it cost around a pound a litre!!! He was not very amused. The guy at the pier told him a way around it is to keep the receipt for the full tank of fuel with the duty added on and fill up a drum or two every time you get the chance then no one can prove that you are using it in the yacht. Of course we would not stoop so low but apparently they are all at it down here!

We set off down the Sound of Raasay towards Kyle. There was enough wind for a brisk sail and we made fairly good time with a slight detour to look at a new pier being built on Raasay. The wind fairly calmed down once we were out of the swell and behind a few islands and it was a flat clam by the time we passed under the Skye bridge. The girls were very impressed with going under the bridge they thought it might not be high enough (it always looks like that from below!) We tested out our GPS navigation on the lap top too, Ali shouted out at the moment we went under the bridge at the mid point and I was down below checking it was exactly bang on, at least something on this boat is working...........

We tied up at the pontoon and headed off into town for a coffee and a stroll around. It was a bit rainy so we just went for a walk down the road to look around the piers at night. There is a MOD base here which is very well fenced off and we were snooping around there to see what we could see. Then the rain came on and we went off home to light the stove.